scroll down to the MySet setting you wish to save your settings to
IMPORTANT IF a setting has previously been saved (ie. value = Set instead of No Data)
if you just press OK, your camera will be configured with your OLD MySet settings!
THUS, you must scroll right by using R arrow then select SET then OK
step 3 - using a MySet setting
go to Menu, Camera 1 then Reset/Myset, press OK
scroll down to the MySet setting you wish to set the camera to
IMPORTANT - JUST PRESS OK DO NOT use right arrow to next window
scrolling right to next window will over-ride the current saved settings as per step 2 - this is NOT what you want here!
basic setting optimised for manual focus
allows instant access to AF in MF mode via AFL button (or Fn 1 button if this is assigned to AFL)
AF mode = MF
use Fn1 or REC button to lock AF
if giving the camera to another user, change AF to S-AF so that half-press shutter locks AF
if you wish to AF on a slender or small subject, enter magnified view then press AFL button
Fn 1:
on cameras without a dedicated AFL button, set Fn1 to AEL/AFL
or, for those with an E-M5 or earlier who like focus peaking and have set a focus peaking hack to MySet1, choose MySet1
in cameras with an AFL button such as the E-M1:
set Fn1 to focus peaking
Fn 2 = Magnify
REC button can be assigned to your preference such as
MF
so one can quickly toggle between SAF and MF modes
Keystone (on E-M1)
DOF Preview
unfortunately you cannot assign this button to MySet1, as ideally I would have AFL assigned to Fn 1
remember when PASM dial is set to movie mode, REC button becomes movie RECORD again
I usually have REC assigned to something other than movie record to avoid accidentally starting a movie
Right arrow button = ISO
Down arrow button = WB mode
set AF region to smallest square in the centre
Shooting Menu 1:
Picture Mode = Vivid (gives faster AF)
Still Picture - LF+RAW or just RAW
Image Aspect = 4:3
Digital teleconverter = OFF
Shooting Menu 2:
drive = single shot
Image stabiliser = I.S. 1 (on the E-M5) or S-IS Auto on later models
NB. if using a legacy lens ensure IS focal length of the lens is manually entered in - this is NOT saved in MySet
AF/MF:
Full-time AF = OFF
this just wastes the battery and will generally drive you crazy
AEL/AFL = S1/C2/M3
this is the critical function that allows AFL button to activate S-AF even when focus mode is MF
MF Assist = OFF
if you keep accidentally touching the lens manual focus ring and you find the automatic magnified view this is annoying, turn it OFF, you can always activate by pressing the function key you allocated to magnify view
manually activating magnified view allows you a longer duration of magnified view as you must manually exit it by pressing the OK button
AF Illuminator = OFF
you don't really need this distracting functionality unless it is really dark
Face detection = nearest eye
Release:
Half Way Rls With IS = ON
this activates IS with half-press shutter
essential for magnified view MF
on the E-M5 IS is activated in magnified view only when shutter half-pressed
on the E-M1 IS is activated in magnified view without need to half press the shutter
turn off if you rarely use MF to save battery life
Disp:
Live BOOST = OFF
EVF view is near WYSIWYG in terms of current exposure settings
only really need this set to ON in very low light conditions (such as long exposures), or when using flash and you will be under-exposing ambient light
LV Close Up Mode = mode 2 (allows AF to work even in magnified view!)
Beep = OFF
USB Mode = Storage
Exp/ISO:
ISO = 200 (best quality ISO)
ISO-Auto Set upper limit = 1600 or 3200
ISO-AUTO = ALL
may be handy in Manual exposure mode when I want to keep shutter and aperture constant but still have auto exposure although currently cannot do exposure compensation with autoISO in M mode
Anti-Shock = 0 sec to avoid shutter shake (on the E-M5, just set it to OFF)
Custom Flash:
additive exposure compensation = OFF (too complicated to work out otherwise)
Quality/Color/WB:
Noise Reduction = Auto
this is to ensure automatic dark frame subtraction occurs to reduce thermal noise in longer exposures
Noise Filter = LOW
generally best not to use in-camera noise filtering but to adjust this in post-processing
flash photography with ambient under-exposed
set as for MF shooter BUT:
Live Boost = ON
WB = flash or custom WB
sports
set as for MF shooter BUT:
ISO = 1600 (perhaps 3200 or autoISO)
drive = hi burst rate or lo burst rate (if wish to use C-AF)
consider a custom WB
consider focus mode = C-AF + tracking but only if using an E-M1 and a fast AF lens
astrophotography
assuming camera is mounted on a tripod or equatorial mount
set as for RAW MF shooter BUT:
ISO = 1600 (perhaps 3200)
WB to incandescent (usually give nicer colours)
Live BOOST = ON
this allows one to see the stars in the EVF (if using a wide aperture lens)
IS = OFF
drive = self-timer 2sec (or 12 sec if shooting through a telescope)
this reduces camera shake from you pressing the shutter release
"movie mode"
as for MF but:
Fn 2 = Digital teleconverter (the only real use for this is in movies)
REC = REC
AF mode = C-AF or MF
or C-AF + tracking, if you want to retain AF on a single subject