photo:flash_outdoors
Table of Contents
using flash outdoors creatively
using gels on your flash
- your flash has a “daylight” colour temperature of about 5600K
- tungsten lighting has a colour temperature of 3400K
- the sun's colour temperature is least red at midday when it is about 5500K, and then by sunset drops to about 3200K
- the light from clouds gives a colour temperature of 6500-7500K
- the light from blue sky gives a colour temperature of 9000-12,000K, which is why shadows on a sunny are very blue
- a full CTO gel (orange) effectively converts your flash to tunsgten colour of 3400K
- a 1/2 CTO gel will convert it to 3800K
- a 1/4 CTO gel will convert it to 4500K
- a 1/8 CTO gel will convert it to 4900K, and is often used by wedding photographers to give the bride's skin a bit of warmth
- a 1/2 CTS (straw) gel is often used in preference to CTO for sunset warmth as the skin is said to look better
simulating backlit sunset on a cloudy day
- note: this is NOT going to give you a warm sunset sky, but it will be a touch warmer than in reality thanks to the white balance setting
- set exposure to under-expose for the ambient light
- set camera white balance to cloudy or shady to create more warmth - esp. in ambient lit areas
- place a 1/4 or 1/2 CTO gel on your “sun” flash to warm it up, and set power to over-expose a little
- use a flash without gel in an umbrella or soft-box as your subject's main light - this will provide warm skin tones
- to get even more creative, you can use:
- a flash fired through a large umbrella or softbox using a 1/4 CTO gel to mimic the diffuse warm light of the sky around the sun
- and a 2nd flash in FRONT of, and perhaps below the umbrella with a 1/2-3/4 CTO gel and flash set at lower power to mimic the actual setting sun
creating a deep blue sky from overcast
- this is called key shifting
- set camera white balance to tungsten (this makes the sky and all ambient lit areas blue)
- place a full CTO gel on your flash(es) to light your subject and have normal skin tones
sunset portraits
- step 1. the whole reason for shooting at sunset is usually the warm lighting, so step 1 is to take control of your camera's white balance, and consider setting it to around 4000-4500K depending upon how warm you want it
- step 2. set camera to shoot in RAW mode so you can more readily fine tune your white balance later
- step 3. consider setting your camera to manual exposure so you can control how dark you want the skies - they usually look best and more saturated if under-exposed a touch
- step 4. set aperture to around f/8 on a full frame camera so that you have sufficient depth of field (DOF) to keep the clouds reasonably sharp
- step 5. decide on the type of image you want
backlit silhouette
- this is the easiest - just under-expose the sky and your subject will appear almost black depending on how bright the sun is still or it it is above the horizon or not.
- no flash!
sidelit portrait
- using the sun or the glow from the sunset to sidelight your subject while still allowing you to hopefully get some nice skies in the background
- the subject's shadow areas may be too contrasty, these can be assisted by either:
- use of a reflector, or,
- a fill in flash, perhaps with a 1/4 or 1/2 CTO to help match the main light from the sunset
portrait with lovely, saturated skies
- to get a lovely, under-exposed sky, you will need to under-expose the sky and thus your subject, which then will require you to use a flash as a main light for your subject
- the flash should preferably be in a soft box or umbrella to provide a nice, diffuse unobtrusive light, and should have a gel to match your desired white balance setting
photo/flash_outdoors.txt · Last modified: 2014/07/15 22:24 by gary1