NatureHike Dune 10.9 Pro hot tent

Introduction

introduced in 2025, it is a slightly larger, heavier and re-designed version of the NatureHike Dune 10.9 hot tent
the additional two side doors, now make a total of 6 doors, each with a fabric and mesh layer, and seems ALL have the option of zipping on clear TPU for those cold rainy days (these are optional extras to purchase and the previous version only allowed TPU to zip on the front door and this TPU will not fit this model due to size differences)
as with the previous models it comes with a fire-proofed stove jack so it can be used as a hot tent and has no floor so if rain does come through the stove jack around the chimney, any water will just soak into the ground rather than collecting on the floor and making everything wet
the sides and doors also have a snow skirt for those wishing to use it in snow
with all the doors meshed it becomes a flying insect proof gazebo with option of fullying opening all doors or fully closing all doors
the rear and front doors can open out into an awning but unlike the NatureHike Dune 10.9 hot tent, the front door fabric is only one layer so can't be extended out to double the distance or as a far wall.
the included inner tent now is orientated long ways instead of transversely as with the previous two models (although I personally replace this with a freestanding 4 season 2P hiking tent without its fly for even more versatility, privacy and warmth)
unlike the NatureHike Dune 10.9 hot tent, there is no optional “top deck” fly but instead there is an optional large, heavy and bulky side awning which can be attached on the far side to provide a partial top deck effect, however, the original “top deck” can be fitted - just the velcro wraps will not reach the poles.

Specs

if using a stove:
- bring a large clamp to hold the side door partly open so it does not touch the stove in wind or you should have it fully zipped closed or toggled fully open - as a minimum the wall will melt away leaving large holes
- make sure it is well guyed out so tent does not become compromised and the stove fall over while burning
  - this is much more of a problem with air pole tents - if they suddenly decompress, the tent will fall onto the stove!
- DO NOT use a stove in strong winds as there is risk of the tent failing and blowing over onto the stove - this would apply to most hot tents
- make sure you leave at least one door partly open to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning - the silent camp killer

2025 upgraded "Pro" version

10,000mmPU coating 75D 210T polyester silver lined
6 doors instead of 4 doors and it seems ALL doors can have the optional zip on clear TPU instead of just the front door
23cm longer, 18cm wider, giving 20% more floor area, 6cm taller, front and rear awning 17% more coverage but 15% heavier, and can no longer double the front awning coverage:
- 443 × 278 × 206 cm = 12.32 sqm instead of 10.9 sqm
- ~10.0kg without inner tent or TPUs
- with main door TPU and 2 side door TPUs but without the inner tent, comes to ~11.5kg which is ~15% heavier than the original version with one TPU and the top deck
- might be a touch too big for some Parks Vic tent sites
front door awning no longer is double so does not open as far
pole sleeves seem to be much stronger and are now reinforced at the ends where the optional awning will attach - I probably would not have it attached in windy conditions though as it will add unnecessary stresses to these attachment points
thankfully this version also now has tie downs on each corner of the snow skirts (the previous versions did not have this and they were very noisy in strong winds)
this version also features a newly designed stove jack which has a base 15.5cm diam hole but a velcro attached jack is supplied with a 11.5cm diam hole for smaller chimneys which is the perfect size for a Winnerwell medium triple shield chimney segment
allows the rear side windows to be fully unzipped as a doorway, and also there is now a “small TPU door” which will zip onto the side doors
tent poles: 14mm aluminum × 1 (total length 549 cm), 14mm aluminum × 2 (total length 720 cm) which are longer and much heavier than the original version poles
roof vents do not have a bug screen, which could allow insects to enter when the vent is open but you can zip it fully closed

the new inner tent

new “3-4P” frame-less inner tent is larger and heavier than the previous model and occupies the whole rear half of the tent and the stove is a bit further away from it and safer perhaps
- B3 Mesh + 210T Polyester Fabric with 150D 4500mmPU Oxford floor
  - ceiling is fully mesh
  - remainder can be fully fabric or almost fully mesh if open the fabric layer of each door/window
- area is 2.55×2.1m = 5.36sqm compared to previous 10.9 model inner tent which was 2.4x2m = 4.8sqm hence it is 12% larger
  - for comparison, the Oztrail 4P Fast Frame tent sleeping area is a similar size at 2.4×2.2m = 5.28sqm but only has 2 doors
  - easily large enough to fit a twin Zempire Monstabed either parallel to the window (in which case there is potentially room for another single), or at a 45deg angle
- weighs 2.5kg instead of 1.5kg for previous version
- setting up the inner tent:
  - ensure you have NatureHike label to front to get orientation correct
  - connect each of the floor corner buckles into the main tent
  - attach rear toggles to the tent to erect it
  - attach front toggles to the tent to erect it
  - finally adjust the tension on the floor corner straps
  - NB. there are 7 ceiling rings to attach the toggles plus 4 lower rings - if not using the inner tent, any of these could be used to hand a lamp or string up a clothesline
- has a zippered electrical cable port
- lantern hook above the doorway
- each window side has two mesh storage areas near floor level
- each of its 2 doors and 2 large side windows having two layers (white fabric and mesh) both of which can be fully opened - previous model only has 2 doors from memory
  - this means you could get in and out through the side “windows” which zip DOWNWARDS
  - the front and rear doors both zip towards the wall opposite the stove jack
    - keeps them much cleaner and more protected than if they zipped to floor and keeps them away from the stove when tied back but does restrict options slightly
    - can make access to one pair of door zips a touch more difficult at ground level if you are sleeping on an elevated bed adjacent the door

optional extras

does not have an optional “top deck” fly although the old model fly will fit with some adjustments such as wrapping the elastic cords around a pole a few times then clipping into a guy out, but the velcro tabs will no longer fit to the poles (apart from one) as they are now further apart
optional zip on TPU doors
- 2 sizes - one fits front and rear doors (you get one in a pack), other size fits the 4 side doors (you get two in a pack)
optional catenary cut side awning which could also cover the tent and requires the 4 supplied poles and guy outs
- side awning: 150D 10,000PU black lined Oxford catenary cut 445 × 430cm 15.5sqm 5.53kg incl. 4x22mm 2.2m poles packs to 57 × 19 × 19cm
optional footprint:
- 4.3×2.7m 150D 3000mmPU Oxford 1.36kg
see https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009924102395.html
see https://www.naturehike.com/products/dune%E2%84%A2-10-9-pro-4-person-hot-tent?variant=47217950654720

use a cheap 2.5x2m annex matting from Kmart for the front half and a 1.8×2.4m poly tarp for the rear half to sit under a 1-3P hiking style tent without its fly (or a freestanding swag) in the rear (to provide extra puncture resistance and additional waterproofing for your inner tent)
- in warm weather the supplied inner tent may serve your needs but I find a 1-3P freestanding tent a nicer option for warmth and privacy
in strong winds, have a corner facing the wind and double peg the guy lines
- wrap each guy rope around the adjacent pole to reduce stresses on the guy out
- use strong, long pegs anchored firmly into ground near vertically with guy lines at ~30deg angle to the ground - have a 2nd peg behind each peg and rope tied to the front peg and consider placing a boulder on this rope section, if no boulders, consider adding a 3rd peg behind and tied to the 2nd peg
- in soft ground such as sand or snow, bury dead-man anchors as “pegs”
- ensure all sides are taut and NOT open to the wind
  - OR perhaps could open EVERY door so there is very little surface area for wind impact but the roof will still be a major risk and will need even more pegging
- take down the awnings if very windy
- according to NH, keep the built-in upper vents cracked open as closing them completely creates a high-pressure bubble inside that causes the fabric to flap violently.
- consider adding an angled tarp on the wind side to deflect the wind over the tent
  - this needs to be well pegged down at ground level and securely attached to the frame of the tent in multiple places - if wind changes direction, it will need to be taken down to avoid it becoming a parachute!
in very strong winds, you may need to abort and take the tent down if it is not adequately protected
- eg. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Jv2JOzqynU - perhaps should have checked the wind forecast first and found a more sheltered camp!
- having said that, if you have 3 layers zipped up for each doorway, it is doubly guyed out and doubly pegged or supported with boulders, all peg out points including snow skirt peg out points pegged, and you keep the doors facing the wind closed, I suspect this tent would be capable of withstanding some decent winds, especially if a corner is facing the wind - make sure you take down the stove chimney though - it could suffer and get bent.

Potential cons

ceiling vents are not insect proof - if insects are an issue you may need to keep them closed and rely upon the door mesh for ventilation
I'm not a fan of the supplied tent pegs as they are not easy to extract from hard ground - buy your own and decide which type for your expected soil/sand conditions
the web strap which connects each of the pole inserts is now thinner than the non-Pro version and are now also attached by a sewn web strap to each of the side door frames - these no longer have a peg out point
- this is great if you can pitch it so the web straps are taut but not so great otherwise - if you want one handed unzipping of the door you may need to peg down the web strap at those points
as with the previous model, may not do well in winds over 80kph - make sure you avoid these where possible and protect it from strong winds over 30-40kph but using extra guy/peg supports, etc
inner tent can flap around and wake you when its windy
I think I still prefer a 2P hiking tent inside rather than the supplied inner tent for better warmth and less noise, but if you are a family of 3-4 or camping in warm nights then the inner tent makes more sense

What can you fit inside?

see calculating the possible angles of rotation of a rectangular object inside a larger rectangle on how to calculate this

tarp sizing to fit sleeping area

a stronger more puncture proof tarp is worth investing in to go under the inner tent or your hiking tent or whatever you decide to sleep in
the area is about 6sq m so a 2.4x3m tarp would be ideal as this would allow the edges to be raised to prevent water going on top of it if it rains heavily and thereby providing an extra layer of waterproofing

if using the supplied inner tent

you could squeeze in 2 adults and 2 children but not have any room to walk, ideally it is best for 1-2 adults or perhaps 2 adults and a child
- you could also fit a stretcher in the front half for another camper even with the stove but it does start getting cramped
for an object placed inside the inner tent, we need to use the constraint size of the inner tent - it's shortest dimension is 2.1m and it's longest is 2.55m and its diagonal length is 3.3m
thus the largest rectangle that can be fully rotated within this must have a diagonal less than 2.1m
for rectangular objects with a diagonal more than 2.1m but less than 3.3m, it might be able to be partly rotated but you would usually only be putting in maximum lengths less than 2.5m
can easily fit a Zempire Twin Monstabed
- this can be placed along the window and still have room for a single camper or it can be moved to the middle (and optionally rotated 45deg) to occupy most of the middle but with space on either side to give options of each person getting out and standing on floor space

if not using the supplied inner tent

for an object placed inside the outer tent, we need to use the constraint size of the outer tent - it's shortest dimension is 2.78m and it's longest is 4.42m and its diagonal length is 5.2m
thus the largest rectangle that can be fully rotated within this must have a diagonal less than 2.78m
for rectangular objects with a diagonal more than 2.78m but less than 5.2m, it might be able to be partly rotated but you would usually only be putting in maximum lengths less than 3m
examples:
- can easily fit most freestanding 2P tents sideways or length ways as their diagonal is unlikely to be more than 2.7m with longest side being about 2.2m and shortest side being about 1.55m - one should be able to rotate such a tent 90deg as required
  - you can fit a 2P Goout Springhill Penglai Kangaro TC bird-wing style tents in various ways:
    - transversely at rear so you can get out the rear door and have plenty of space between the inner tent and stove
    - long-ways on either side of rear so can get out of the rear side doors (if using a stove, probably best on same side as the stove for mobility reasons and there is adequate space between stove and tent especially if you have stove door facing the front)
    - obliquely in rear section on same side as stove - could get out of rear of inner tent via one rear side door, while there is plenty of room in front to get out of the other rear side door and to mobilise
    - if not using a stove you can have more options to include the front part as the front in this case is really a mirror image of the rear section
- you could fit a freestanding 3P tent transversely at rear but the two rear side doors would not be usable
- you could easily fit 3 single stretchers or freestanding single swags

Scenarios

Scenario 1 - standard Winter hot tent configuration

all doors can be closed or have clear TPU attached (but one will need to be at least partly open if using a wood stove to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning - the silent camp killer)
the inner tent attached as supplied - although I prefer a warmer all fabric polycotton 2P hiking tent such as the Goout Springhill Penglai Kangaro TC bird-wing style tents, others may prefer a freestanding swag
woods stove with two triple layer chimney segments for extra safety eg. Winnerwell Nomad wood camping stoves
use a cheap 2.5x2m annex matting from Kmart for the front half
- if the ground is wet, you may prefer to use a waterproof low flammability tarp instead (ie. not polyethylene!) or thick rubber mats
use a 1.8×2.4m poly tarp for the rear half to sit under the hiking tent (or a freestanding swag) in the rear for extra puncture and waterproof protection

Scenario 2 - warm weather camping

convert at least 2 doors to mesh for air flow, if really warm, you could open all doors and rely upon the inner tent for insect proofing
use a 1.8×2.4m poly tarp for the rear half to sit under the hiking tent (or a freestanding swag) in the rear for extra puncture and waterproof protection

Scenario 3 - rainy day or winter TPU viewing configuration

all doors can have an optional clear TPU attached (but one will need to be at least partly open if using a wood stove to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning - the silent camp killer)
the inner tent attached as supplied - although I prefer a warmer all fabric polycotton 2P hiking tent such as the Goout Springhill Penglai Kangaro TC bird-wing style tents, others may prefer a freestanding swag
woods stove with two triple layer chimney segments for extra safety eg. Winnerwell Nomad wood camping stoves
use a cheap 2.5x2m annex matting from Kmart for the front half
- if the ground is wet, you may prefer to use a waterproof low flammability tarp instead (ie. not polyethylene!) or thick rubber mats
use a 1.8×2.4m poly tarp for the rear half to sit under the hiking tent (or a freestanding swag) in the rear for extra puncture and waterproof protection
in my tests:
- on a sunny winter day with two TPU side doors facing sun - it was 10-13degC outside and hit 25-30degC inside the tent requiring opening another door to reduce temperature
- on cold winter nights with outside temps 5-7degC and minimal breeze, a Buddy Heater on LPG gas, or a Winnerwell Medium Nomad stove with one front door partly open for carbon monoxide management each separately resulted in internal air temperatures away from radiant heat to average about 24degC overnight ~0.8m from ground level (ie. sleeping level when using a Monstabed inside a 2P tent)

Scenario 4 - as a gazebo for entertaining

as for Scenario 2 but no need for the inner tent
adjust doors to need - no doors at all, or meshed for warm weather and insect protection, or, clear TPU on one or two sides for wind/rain while allowing visibility
take extra poles, guys and pegs so you can extend the front and rear door awnings
optionally add the optional side awning for extra space

Reviews

my first impressions
- fantastic design, especially if you want versatility for 4 seasons
- easy to set up by one person (once you know how - if it is windy peg at least two of the corners facing wind out before setting up with poles)
- lots of space amenity
- lots of visibility even in the rain thanks to the optional clear TPU zip on doors
- 6 doors gives you enormous versatility - if weather direction changes, no big deal just open the other side
- seems very well made and if appropriately set up for strong winds as outlined above, I think it should do better than many tents
- for its amenity and versatility, it is quite compact, light and relatively inexpensive
- perhaps the largest size tent that will fit on most Parks Victoria camp sites and perhaps the largest you would want to set up as one person
- perhaps the biggest / heaviest tent you would want to have to hang up to dry - this gives it a massive advantage over air pole tents and fast frame tents - storing wet will rapidly destroy any tent!
- a force of 12kg directed on the end pole is enough to push it in substantially - so it may need lots of protection in strong winds which could generate much stronger forces than this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep-D2IQhdI0 a first impressions set up with inner tent and stove plus TPUs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVt25VkTzfI - shows inner tent sides can be fully opened
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COh0t--SKvo heavy rain leak test - seems it passed without leaking (although it will leak around the chimney if using one but this is not usually a big issue)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fAGSq0ePNo in the snow with a stove but without the inner tent
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxz3vcas81Y in the snow
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDgIFLGMBfs use of the optional side awning to cover the tent (attached to opposite side)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSjRoC8uqa4 the extra height can require a step stool for shorter campers to adjust ceiling vents and stove jack
https://youtu.be/7Jv2JOzqynU?t=1099 trying the tent out in severe winds - decides to take it down as poles flexing too much and there is no protection for the tent
- avoid camping in unprotected areas subject to strong winds such as this particular Armageddon valley in NZ which has destroyed many tents, plus not good to be there with a rapidly rising river which could become dangerous!

How to set the tent up

1. find a suitable site that is preferably not going to get flooded if it rains heavily (don't really want big puddles inside the tent) and won't be subject to very strong winds, and you won't be sitting on an ant's nest or have similar pest issues

2. lay the tent out on the ground with the black pole sleeves upper most and if windy, peg two of the corners out at the windy end ensuring the ground level webbing strap between them is taut

3. insert the two main black cross poles into their pole sleeves and then the silver transverse pole into its sleeve

4. insert the end of each of the two cross poles into the corner spigots

4a. go to the opposite end and by lifting the pole, pushing the pole while pulling on the tent fabric so it doesn't come out at the other end and adjust the tent fabric so the pole is properly positioned in the pole sleeve, then whilst grabbing onto its spigot, try to insert the pole into the spigot

4b. Repeat at the final corner but this time you will need to lift up the tent by elevating the poles.

5. place the transverse pole's ends into their spigots, again you may need to adjust the pole position within the sleeve

6. peg the remaining corners, and the two middle ones, ensuring the ground level webbing straps are taut

7. clip the tent to the poles

8. peg out the guy ropes securely

9. if using the optional TPU doors, zip them on before setting up the inner tent

10. if using the optional ground sheet or a tarp as a ground sheet, place this in position before setting up the inner tent

11. set up the inner tent if using it (see above), alternatively, use a free-standing hiking tent without its fly or a swag, or just a stretcher bed

12. finally peg out remaining peg points as desired, in particular the peg outs at the bottom of the door you will unzip, and if windy, all of the peg out including the snow skirts

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