trailer shelters, vans and caravans for camping
see also:
- I don't sell any of these nor do I receive any remuneration if you buy them, and I have not personally reviewed all of them, they are listed here to give you perspective
- if you drive towing a trailer or caravan, your chances of mishaps increase substantially and you may lose everything if this occurs in a remote setting - not to mention delays to medical care
- 4WD and trailer/caravan roll overs can occur unexpectedly such as a rear tyre blowout, even on relatively flat roads and will likely end your trip!
- examples:
- Risk of trailer sway and roll over
- addressing causes of trailer sway:
- ensure trailer is not too long - choose the shortest trailer possible
- ensure optimum mass distribution - mass should be mainly low down over the trailer wheels - not at the front or rear of trailer
- tandem wheels should have same road grip and hence same load - and thus trailer must be LEVEL
- avoid long distance from rear wheel of vehicle to hitch point (avoid tow bar extensions) and avoid rear overhang loads over hitch point
- ensure low centre of gravity for both tow vehicle and trailer
- ensure correct tow ball mass of 5-10%
- too heavy and trailer will be too stable and not turn with tow vehicle plus less load and hence grip on the vehicle's front wheels
- inadequate tow ball mass although making trailer easier to maneuver, makes the trailer unstable
- ensure correct tyre pressures as determined by load on each wheel
- too low - increases risk of trailer sway, squirm and float
- too high - increases trailer bounce and loss of grip
- SLOW DOWN - 90kph is much safer than 110kph!
- reduce speed and thus reduce trailer momentum (momentum = mass x velocity) and shorten your braking distance
- take care downhill as trailer momentum and gravity forces tend to have trailer “overtaking” tow vehicle which increases sway - ensure you reduce speed at start of downhill parts and increase the proportion of braking to the trailer brakes!
- take extra care in wet weather or with gusty winds (eg. passing a truck)
- take extra care on bumpy roads that bounce the trailer around
- ensure your vehicle is appropriate for the towing and braking needs and the tow ball load is appropriate and you learn to drive appropriately towing a van
- driving after sunset dramatically increases risk of hitting a camel or similar large animal, if you swerve suddenly you may end up with a rollover or into a tree
- motorhomes and caravans occasionally catch fire
- AC inverters and other electrical systems can start a fire
- gas leaks are common
- if your negligence results in an incident which causes harm to others, you do risk life long guilt and also potentially imprisonment!
- if heading to a non-bookable campground in peak periods, you may need to get there a day or two BEFORE a long weekend as sites large enough for caravans quickly run out!
- thinking of buying a van or camper - perhaps hire one for a holiday first to see if it suits you
Introduction
- many campers prefer to tow a trailer or van for their camping trips as these may provide:
- more amenity (gas fridges, stoves, better beds, storage space for extended cooking equipment and cutlery)
- most have a 2nd external gas stove which can be pulled out for use and avoids the cooking smells becoming embedded inside the van
- greater water storage capacities
- often less accessible to animals/insects seeking food
- in some cases better security although most only provide security against opportunistic thieves and not against professional thieves
- potentially less set up and pack up time as self-contained and most gear is already ready to go without packing
- built-in shower and toilet (although even if these are built in, many would prefer not to use the toilet to avoid having to manage it) - these are generally only in the longer caravans or motorhomes
- the downsides are:
- they are much more expensive and tend to depreciate in value
- they can severely limit where you can get to and which camp grounds allow access
- much harder to find a large enough camp site when campgrounds are nearly full
- may not be able to get out of a campsite if another camper has left there vehicle unattended in the way of your hitching and towing out the caravan
- more can go wrong - gas leaks, water leaks, towing issues, wheel issues, van brake failure due to failed connections, etc
- unlike tent scenarios where worst case you just buy another tent, stove or fridge, if things go wrong with a van, they can be time consuming and expensive to fix - if you can fix them - parts or mechanics may not be easy to access - especially over holiday periods or in more remote areas
- need a fairly large area of reasonably flat ground plus use of ramps under wheels to ensure relatively flat
- many campgrounds now have bollards which prioritises tent campers and may make finding a caravan or trailer site difficult - especially if you want to set up a awning
- generally need extra height access so camp grounds with low hanging trees can be problematic
- high risk of accidents whilst being towed, including loss of control at speed, hitting pedestrians due to poor visibility, or poles when cornering due to poor judgement or visibility
- they will require use of much more fuel to tow
- some do take some time to set up and pack down
- they can get very hot in summer time if there is no air conditioning - air conditioning will require a LOT of electricity and necessitate large batteries and solar panels
- they can get very cold in winter unless you add extra heating such as a diesel heater but this can be noisy for other campers
- some require considerable physical abilities to set up and pack down, and some require a 2nd person to assist
- require storage when not in use
- constant risk of them being stolen by being towed away by thieves when unattended
- kitchen sink just dumps oily/detergent water with food/meat scraps straight onto the camp site attracting flies and wasps while contaminating the site for the next tent or swag camper - this is NOT Leave No Trace camping! Please put a bucket to catch it and dispose the waste appropriately.
- they require the towing vehicle to be appropriately matched to the caravan weight loaded - a Toyota Prado will not cut it for a larger, heavier caravan!
- they need to be optimally weight distributed for safe towing
- you will most likely have to have it weighed to ensure it is not heavier than legal weights
- if using a 24V system, you will need to have voltage converters to be compatible and if a component fails, it may be hard to find a 24V version in more remote areas while troubleshooting a 24V system is far more complex and dangerous than a 12V system (48V if even worse in this regard!)
- it is likely you will need a special caravan towing licence at some point when govts bring this in to reduce caravan related road accidents
- traveling around Australia with a caravan
- in 2024 as a young family of 4 in a small rig caravan is likely to cost $AU90,000-120,000 per year ($2000/wk) in expenses assuming no disasters and you are budget-minded
- note, you would spend a substantial part of this if staying at home, paying rent and not traveling so it isn't all bad unless you have a disaster and lose your vehicle or van, or worse.
- another couple in Apr-Aug 2024 travelled from Albury to Adelaide to Perth, Broome, Darwin, Adelaide and back with a 22 Prado towing 2.5t caravan:
- 104 days, 16121km, 2637 litres of diesel (~6km/L or 16L/100km) at av 100kph at an average of $2.02 per litre = $5,327, half of the 50 different camps were free, total accomm costs $1786; Total cost excluding groceries $10,183 ($1454/wk)
- use Petrolspy or fuel map app to plan fuel stops and save money by avoiding the expensive petrol stations
- if you confine travel to 10am-4pm each day at 90-95kph (aim for max 400km/day) to save fuel and you will minimise chances of hitting a roo or worse - you can reduce vehicle weight by not having a roo bar and you may achieve 20L/100km with a Prado towing 2.5t caravan
- with a caravan, definitely need a grey water tank to use a lot of rest areas otherwise you need bush camps like gravel pits etc
- you should consider making an advanced vehicle service bookings in a capital city (eg. Perth and Darwin) perhaps 2 months in advance to reduce chances of breakdowns en route
- avoid cyclones
- category 1 or 2 cyclones may cause damage to buildings and caravans
- category 3 or higher cyclones have wind gusts above 165kph and these will generally destroy caravans while a category 4 cyclone at over 225kph gusts may blow away a caravan
Design options
- full size caravan
- popular with families going to caravan parks
- much more difficult to tow, reverse, find a suitable camp site than a shorter caravan
- provide reasonable security although extra measures are needed to mitigate tow away risks by thieves
- this will generally require a $100,000+ 4WD tow vehicle and the caravan can easily cost well over $100,000 creating a high risk for non-insurable financial loss if used in remote areas
- pop-top caravan
- eg. Jayco Poptop ($AU57K), All-Terrain pop top ($AU73K) these are generally 17'
- travel heights are usually 2.5-2.7m
- only a relatively small upper ceiling pops up to provide more head room, shorter people can stand up even if this is not popped up
- door remains in situ when towed
- some have extension wing-like annexes at end eg. Expanda Pop Top ($AU65K, 4 adults, 2kids)
- “camper trailer” pop-up caravan
- eg. Jayco Penguin 3 person 22' ($AU29K)
- compared to a caravan, take more time to set up and pack down but travel much better with much less fuel requirements and are much easier to find a camp site and park it
- 14' versions tend to be the most popular size but will not have internal showers or toilets
- travel height 1.6-1.77m so less wind resistance and less fuel
- double bed, child sofa bed, fridge, stove, sink, cupboards
- top half walls are mainly canvas hence not really secure
- top half of door is folded up into ceiling for towing
- some have extension wing-like annexes at end that can accommodate extra people eg. Jayco Swift, Swan ($AU32K), Lark ($AU25K) and Eagle models
- J Pod
- light weight trailer style, roll out side sink, fridge
- eg. Jayco Sport ($AU24K) and Outback ($AU30K)
- can carry a kayak or bike on the roof
- A-frame fold up caravan
- popular with solo women as provide better security against forced access and are reasonably easy to set up and pack down
- less wind resistance and less fuel than a full van
- ends have low head room which can be annoying
- pod style camper trailers
- almost zero set up time (apart from leveling) but you can't stand up in them and you need to go outside to cook
- tend to be designed for off-road use and thus can be very heavy to make them robust and durable
- eg. Goldfields Escape Pod ~1300kg ~$40,000
- Renogy 300Ah LiFePo4 battery system; very dust proof, easy to tow but departure angle may be an issue for some; don't get the Darche 270deg awning;
- often have an optional rooftop tent
- tear drop camper trailers
- these teardrop designs are small compact trailers which are popular for woman as they are easier to hitch to a car than a larger trailer and provide some sense of security
- they generally have a small horizontal 2P sleeping area which is quite claustrophobic and does not allow standing
- they generally have a small kitchen on the rear but no shelter for it
- the security aspect is probably more perception than real as these could be easily towed away
- you would need an additional shelter option such as a tarp for rain conditions unless you just want to sleep through it
- most would be better off with a touring tent which provides far greater amenity
- other niche fixed trailer designs
- some are mainly wooden for better security
- camper trailer with fold up canvas shelter
- examples:
- longer set up and pack down times but are lighter to tow (so better for smaller cars) and more compact to store.
- some are designed for off-road use
- camper trailer with rooftop tents
- more compact and easier set up than fold up canvas shelters but less amenity and you have to climb a ladder to go to bed
- often designed for off-road use and mated with a 4WD off-road tow vehicle
- examples:
- camper trailer with inflatable air beam tent
- Opus off-road trailers with air beam tent ~$AU31,999-36,999
Opus OP4 ST