photo:editing_tools
Table of Contents
how to use image editing tools
see also:
Introduction
- most image editors have common editing tools and mastery of a tool in one editor is generally transferable to other image editors
Opening or importing images into the editor
- some editors allow you to directly open an image from the computer's folder system
- some, like Lightroom, require the image to be “imported” into the image editors database before it can be edited.
Basic RAW development controls
- there are various controls which most editors provide to allow you to set the base image tonal and color adjustments which include:
- “camera or picture profile”
- these may be able to mimic the picture profiles of your camera
- color balance - color temperature (blue - yellow) and tint (green-magenta)
- exposure
- contrast
- highlights
- whites
- shadows
- blacks
- saturation
- clarity
- vibrance
- lens correction tools:
- chromatic aberration
- distortion
geometric adjustments
- horizontal and/or vertical leveling
- rotation
- keystone correction
- cropping tool
The tone curve
- the tone curve is a very useful although a more difficult tool to use
- elevate the black point to create a “matte” look
- create a full height sine wave curve with 9 peaks to make it easier to detect sensor dust
B&W conversion tools
- black and white conversion can be achieved by a number of techniques including:
- setting saturation to zero
- channel mixer which allows for a range of contrast options by applying a “color filter” effect to the conversion (eg. is you choose red filter as with a red filter on a film camera lens using a B&W film, red objects are made lighter and blue objects such as sky is made darker)
- LUTS
- many prefer to use layers to provide finer control and set the blending mode of the desaturated “filter” layer to “Color”
healing and clone tools
- CLONE mode will just COPY a part of an image to another part of the image
- HEALING mode will attempt to apply the textures and colors of a part of an image to another part of the image
- you need to select:
- size of the “brush”
- amount of feathering
- the area you want changed
- the area to use as a source for the change
frequency separation for skin retouching
adjustment brushes
- this allows you to “paint in” an effect to wherever you wish on the image
- this allows the traditional film print process of dodging“ or “burning” to create contrast and emphasis in your image, which is particularly important with B&W imagery.
- depending upon your image editor, you will have various effects that can be applied in this manner and you can usually select a “brush” for a paint in style and a feather and intensity (opacity or transparency) as well as flow rate
masking tools
- a mask allows you to select parts of an image where you will later apply an effect to (if it is a white or light grey mask) or not apply a global effect (if it is a black mask)
- the skill is in being able to select the regions accurately
- some software have AI tools to take some of this often time consuming selection process away
gradient tools
- this allows an effect to be applied to the image in a graded manner from zero to maximum effect
- you can change the position of the gradient, the rotation and narrow the gradient to create a more dramatic change in the effect (you may want the width to be zero if applying it to a straight horizon)
- this can be used to:
- bring out over-exposed clouds
- add a diffuse sun haze or fog effect
- add a less obvious vignette effect by applying it to only select areas of the image
split toning tools
- these allow you to add a color tone to the highlights &/or shadow areas
- each area can have a different color tone and saturation
- where these merge in the tonal scale can be adjusted
vignetting
- this may be applied to the original image or to the post-cropped image
sharpness
digital noise reduction
- see Youtube tutorial
film grain addition
- adding film grain can be used to great effect to create a retro style or to disguise skin blemish issues
using layers
blend modes
- lighten mode:
- only adds in pixels from a 2nd image which are LIGHTER than in the 1st image
- great for adding lights at night such as car trails, city lights to a sunset shot, creating star trails, etc.
- NB. this can be done automatically in-camera using the unique Olympus Live Composite mode without resorting to Photoshop
- overlay and soft light modes:
- can add imagery such as clouds or colour to a region
- example, create a new layer and paint in some warm colours then blend this into your sunset image
- darken mode:
- only adds in pixels from a 2nd image which are DARKER than in the 1st image
- great for adding dark subjects such as black birds to the sky but may need to brighten the background of the 2nd image so it does not display
- difference mode:
- mainly to assist in manually aligning layers of the same scene
- luminosity mode:
- useful in changing contrast without altering colours
combining images
- this can be done to achieve:
- panoramic stitches
- HDR images from differently exposed images
- adding a texture layer
- creating composites - see composite photography and post-processing
- eg. replacing the sky
- adding in objects
export or save tool
- usually this step gives the option of selecting:
- final sharpening (eg. sharpen for web or for print)
- addition of a watermark
- output image size
- output image format (eg. jpeg with compression setting, TIFF for maximum quality but also largest size)
- output destination
photo/editing_tools.txt · Last modified: 2022/07/14 10:15 by gary1