panoramic photos can be achieved by either:
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Your photo stitching and photo editing software can correct many (but not all) mistakes made during shooting.
Always keep in mind that the more carefully you shoot the less work you will have later on.
For maximum resolution in the vertical direction (height of your panorama), turn your camera by 90° to the portrait orientation and slowly pan from one end of the scene to the other end to get an impression what eventually will be on your images. When panning, keep your camera exactly levelled at the horizon, do not tilt it up or down vertically from the horizon line - most stitching programs cannot satisfactory handle this kind of tilt. If you use a stitcher with vertical tilt correction (e.g. ImageAssembler), you do not have to bother much about this issue. In this case, tilt your camera vertically, if necessary, to catch exactly the scene you want. Just make sure to keep the tilt angle constant for all individual shots.
zoom in (using only optical zoom, of course) deep enough that all objects of interest are covered along the whole horizontal scene, but leave a small safety margin at the top and the bottom as cropping reserve after stitching.
After selecting the right zoom, pan several times from one end of your scene to the other end and correct the zoom slightly, if necessary
Unfortunately, the bigger the zoom the bigger distortion and vignetting (gradual darkening of the image towards the outer edges), depending on the quality of the lens. This might cause difficulties later when the images are stitched together. If you want only small prints of your panoramic image or if you intent to put it merely on the internet, the maximum resolution is usually not necessary. In this case, you could use only a small zoom or no zoom at all and cut the stitched image later generously.
you must try to keep the vertical edge of your images as close as possible to the exact vertical line and the elevation angle of your camera (vertical tilt) exactly the same (at the horizon line for stitchers with no vertical tilt correction) for all shots of the row.
use a tripod if possible & it should have at least a levelling bubble for adjustment of the exact horizontal orientation.
activate exposure lock (AE lock) or set the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO speed manually to the corresponding values to ensure using the same exposure for all shots as this ensures that there will be no significant brightness and coloration discrepancies between them.
Start at the left end of the scene and take the first shot. Spot an object in the image that marks the overlapping edge. Most stitching programs require an image-to-image overlapping between a quarter and a half the image extension.
If you have clouds or other slow-moving objects in your scene, try to shoot the whole scene as quickly as possible. Otherwise, the stitching software might get into trouble.
Be aware that - even when using a tripod - the impact when pushing the shutter button can still cause the image to get blurred, particularly for long exposure times. If necessary, use the timer to shoot the image.