interchangeable sets of Mamiya-Sekor C-series lenses with Seiko #0 shutters 1-1/500thsec + Bulb which can be used on any of the bodies:
The earliest Seikosha-MX chrome lenses had shutter speeds to 1/400th sec and these are not compatible with auto-cocking bodies - the C33 and later;
the Seikosha-SLV chrome lenses made 1958-1962 will not auto-cock but unlike the MX lenses will not foul up the mechanism of auto-cocking bodies.
The Seikosha-S chrome lenses are not multi-coated, some of the black lenses are. The chrome lenses were replaced by the black models sometime in the 1970's as production of the black models appears to have started in 1969.
a blue insert on the shutter cocking arm of some black lenses indicates a newer shutter with raised tip on the leaf designed to minimise chance of shutter blades locking when closing;
lenses of different focal length have different back focus distances and thus require different bellows positions for infinity focus.
the square clamp-fit Mamiya lens hoods will only fit over slimline filters
many lenses have had their X-M sync lever cemented into the X position to avoid inadvertent movement to the M position which is designed for old bulb flashes and thus fires the shutter after a 200msec delay.
whilst intermediate apertures can be set, the shutter speeds must be at the marked speeds.
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“for the lenses that take 49mm filters, I start with a regular 49mm UV filter (Hoya), screw it onto the viewing lens, mark the side of the filter that faces the taking lens with a scribe, remove the filter, carefully file down this side with a fine stone grinder. After clean-up I replace the filter on the viewing lens. I now have enough room to put even a polarizer on the taking lens, which brings me to the next issue: A regular polarizing filter has an index mark on the side. I add several more marks on either side of this mark in multiple colors in approx. 1/4 in. intervals. I used fingernail polish but the little Testors paint for models could be used also. When I want to use the polarizer I hold it up, look through it and rotate it until I get the effect I want, note which mark or space between marks is facing up and place it on the taking lens with the same orientation. It might be more accurate to place it on the viewing lens first. It's a little tedious but it works.”
bellows focusing allows extreme close ups
pc cord connection is on the lenses, not the body
There is no exposure information in the viewfinder, and there are no coupled meters available.
multiple exposure setting
If you hold down the shutter release and wind the film, the film does not stop at the next frame, it just winds on. This is a feature not a bug. It lets you wind off a partially exposed roll of film quickly. If you start winding the film and you don't realize your cable release is locked, it seems like a bug.
when changing lenses to make sure both the lens and body are in matching states: shutter cocked and film wound, or shutter not cocked and film not wound. You won't jam up anything like you can with a Hasselblad, but you can easily get double or blank exposures.
Switching between 120 and 220 is easy. No separate parts to get lost of broken. Just turn one knob and then turn the pressure plate 90 degrees.
film wind tends to be noisy